Our arrival on Boa Vista was smoothed by Bobby-Esther, a friend who runs a small agency managing apartments across the island. Bobby had started scouting places for us in the summer and found us an absolute gem, located on the beach (quite literally) in Estoril, the southern suburb of Sal Rei. As apartments go this has it all – basic, but super comfortable, with a cute terrace from which to watch uninterrupted views of the sun going down over the fishing boats moored in the bay and beyond to Ilheu de Sal Rei. Owned by a Cape Verdean-French couple with two kids it’s got everything we need; bunk bed in the boys room, two small shower rooms (very handy when traipsing in from the beach with two sand-ridden creatures), spacious lounge-kitchen-scooter race track, and a back yard to store all the surf gear. We’ve even a few rare luxuries including a washing machine, ceiling fans, a built-in water filter (massively reducing the reliance on bottled water and plastic waste) and the piece de resistance: we’re on mains (so no tanker deliveries for us).